Somewhere along the way, the venerable tradition of homemade soup got hijacked by the red-and-white can.
Soup strategies
Build on broth "All soups are based on stock," says Betty Rosbottom, "and in the best of all possible worlds, we’d all like to have a pot simmering on the stove" to make homemade stock. But most of us don’t have that time, and she regularly uses purchased broths, with her own additions to make "shortcut stock."
Rosbottom recommends low-sodium broth; of the widely available brands, she likes Swanson and College Inn. She recommends checking on what’s available in your supermarket, buying several brands and having your own tasting to determine your favorite. She notes that there aren’t as many good vegetable stocks in supermarkets; "you need to roast the vegetables to get that extra layer of flavor."
For shortcut stock, Rosbottom starts with 2 quarts (8 cups) purchased chicken or beef stock; adding 2 ribs of celery, 2 medium carrots and 2 medium onions (cut the celery and carrots into 1-inch-thick pieces; halve the onion and cut into 1-inch-thick slices), 2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley and 2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried); and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Strain the stock and refrigerate or freeze.
Canned broth can be turned into quick soups with additions such as shredded or chopped rotisserie chicken and pre-sliced mushrooms, pasta — noodles, orzo, bowties or other small pasta shapes — or rice, which you can simmer in the broth to cook. One of my tricks when I’m sick is to heat up canned chicken broth, place a slice of lemon in the bowl, pour the soup over and add a few drops of hot sauce; I press the lemon with my spoon to release the juice as I eat the soup.
Finishing touches Some garnishing possibilities for soups:
Dollop, swirl or drizzle: Flavored creams or mayonnaise-based sauces, pestos, salsas, yogurt or sour cream or oils.
Sprinkle: Leaves or sprigs of herbs, crumbled bacon or crumbled blue cheese or goat cheese.
Float: Croutons crisp or cheesy, crisp tortilla strips, translucent slices of vegetables or fruits, chopped onion or scallion or shallot, little haystacks of grated cheese, dumplings or spaetzle.
Serve on the side: As with Vietnam’s pho, or Mexico’s posole, wedges of lime can be served for squeezing, along with little dishes of garnishes with which to customize one’s individual bowl.
— Amy Culbertson
ranberry chocolate-chip oatmeal cookies
Drink of the week
